Chef Alejandro Ruiz Selects Top Street Foods in Oaxaca City

Chef Alejandro Ruiz identifies essential street food stops in Oaxaca, highlighting the region’s rich culinary traditions during Day of the Dead festivities.

Chef Alejandro Ruiz began his culinary journey at the age of 19 by opening a modest taco stand in the coastal town of Puerto Escondido. Over three decades later, he directs operations at Casa Oaxaca El Restaurante, one of the most renowned dining establishments in Oaxaca City. He is also the author of The Food of Oaxaca, an award-winning cookbook that documents recipes from the region. Despite his established status in the world of fine dining, Ruiz attributes the core strength of the region’s gastronomy to its vibrant street food culture. He explains that the varied microclimates of the Sierra Madre mountains allow for a unique abundance of fresh ingredients that define the local diet.

Ruiz states that the local culinary philosophy focuses on utilizing available resources, such as lemon trees for fresh lemonade or corn, beans, and chillies for daily meals. He notes that the cuisine represents a complex mixture of Spanish, African Moorish, and Asian techniques, citing spices like cumin and cinnamon. However, he asserts that the Indigenous influence remains the most vital component. The chef highlights the importance of the comal, a traditional griddle used to crisp dough, in preparing staples like tlayudas and memelas. He suggests that the combination of a high-quality tortilla, beans, and salsa is sufficient to create an exceptional culinary experience without the need for complex additions.

Culinary Traditions During Festivals

The Day of the Dead celebrations, occurring between October 31 and November 6, offer a vibrant backdrop for tasting local dishes. Ruiz indicates that this period is ideal for visitors to fully experience the city’s food scene. Traditional holiday meals often center around mole negro served with turkey. The chef advises travelers to look for stands serving turkey tamales with black mole. Seasonal sweets featuring pumpkin or Indian apple preserved in sweet sauce are also prevalent during the holiday. On colder autumn nights, Ruiz recommends consuming hot chocolate accompanied by pan de yema, a spongy sweet bread that is a local staple.

Market Dining Experiences

Ruiz encourages visitors interested in food to explore the local markets to understand the region’s flavors. He identifies Mercado 20 de Noviembre and Benito Juarez in the city center, along with the Central de Abasto, as prime locations. These venues offer a mixture of handicrafts and food stalls featuring items like chapulines, which are fried grasshoppers, as well as various tamales. Ruiz is particularly enthusiastic about the barbecue sections, where customers can select thin-cut beef or chorizo sausages that are grilled fresh to order. For a unique experience outside the main city, he suggests traveling to Tlacolula, a neighboring city where diners can grill their own meats on charcoal grills provided at the market.

Local Taco Favorites

For an authentic taco experience, Ruiz points to Tacos del Carmen, located near the Botanical Garden and historic sites like Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman. This stand is favored by locals for its crispy tortillas and fillings such as mushrooms, beans, and chicharron. Ruiz specifically recommends the taco de chile relleno with chorizo and quesillo, describing it as the richest option in town. Visitors should note that the stand accepts only cash, closes by mid-afternoon, and does not operate on Wednesdays or Sundays.